For The Love of Travel

A glorious morning to set off on today’s adventure – to see the Westport quay area; drive ‘the Gleniff Horseshoe’ and behold the Glencar waterfall. Drove along very pleasant back roads surveying the undulating countryside, occasionally being held up by tractors going between fields and cyclists…the latter are very game given the narrowness of the roads.

The Westport Quay is a historic and picturesque waterfront on Clew Bay. Once a bustling 18thC port, its now a popular spot for tourists featuring scenic views of Croagh Patrick, lively pubs and specialty shops. The Westport House is adjacent to the Quay and offers tours and gardens and connects to the area via a scenic walk. ‘Greenway’ is a magnificent 2.5km parkland with walking and cycling trails that link the town centre to the Quay area. And it’s a hub for sailing, boating and fishing.

What a character to come across on my exit from town…a bronze Paddington Bear with (no doubt jam) sandwich overlooking the Carrowbeg River, installed in 2024 as part of the ‘Padddington Visits’ trail.

Just out of Sligo, is the Gleniff Horseshoe – a breathtaking 10km scenic driving loop and walk near Ballintrillick featuring steep glacial cliffs and a secluded valley, surrounded by the dramatic Dartry Mountains. I was surprised how quiet the area was, almost had it to myself. Not complaining! Here are some examples of the views…

And just a few kilometres away from the loop, the lovely 15m Glencar Falls. Its inspired a wealth of artists, songwriters and poets, the most famous of which is William Butler Yeats. His poem ‘Stolen Child’ was inspired by the tumbling waters and beautifully describes the waterfall and waters that flow here. Here’s an excerpt:

“Where the wandering water gushes
From the hills above Glen-Car,
In pools among the rushes
That scarce could bathe a star,
We seek for slumbering trout
And whispering in their ears
Give them unquiet dreams;
Leaning softly out
From ferns that drop their tears
Over the young streams”.

An early morning start in dreadful weather – swirling mist, heavy downpour. To get to the Cliffs of Moher in County Clare was an all morning drive, with the occasional coffee stop. Then, on arrival, queues of cars coming in from both the north and south, vying to get into a visitor carpark. OY! Anyway, finally made it and it was worth the wait.

The beautiful Cliffs of Moher tower over the rugged west Clare coast. They’re famous for a rich 300-million-year-old geology; their sheer, vertical, 8-kilometre stretch along Ireland’s Atlantic coast, rising up to 214 metres at their highest point; and as a filming location for movies like Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince.

There are 800m of paved pathways, with some ‘indecent’ inclines, from which you can view the famous Cliffs and enjoy the spectacular vistas over the ocean and the Aran Islands. Their natural beauty has inspired artists, musicians, and poets for generations, as well as absorbing scientists and geologists, drawn by the unique landscape in which they sit. The Cliffs host major colonies of nesting sea birds and are one of the country’s most important bird-breeding sites.

On my way to Galway, I happen to notice the turret of this castle from the highway, peaking out from the valley and drove to investigate….well, what find. Doonagore (Doolin) Castle on a hill where it offers stunning views of the surrounding countryside and out towards the Aran Islands.

Constructed from sandstone, it’s believed to date from the mid 16th century, but apparently there was a castle on this site (or very close by) as far back as 1,300. Like most of the many castles in Ireland, Doonagore passed through a number of hands over the years. In its early days, the castle passed between two of the strongest clans in County Clare – the O’Brien’s and the O’Connor’s. After the Irish Rebellion of 1641, the castle was granted to a bloke named John Sarsfield as a result of the Cromwellian settlement. Many years later, in the 18th century, Doolin Castle was passed to a family called the ‘Gore’s’. By the mid-19th century, the castle had yet again fallen into a state of disrepair. Then a private buyer named John C. Gorman (an Irish-American) swooped in and bought it. The castle was restored to much of its former glory in the 1970s by an architect named Percy Leclerc. Fast-forward to 2024 and the castle is still owned by John C. Gorman’s family.

The castle has a very dark past…in 1588, a ship from the Spanish Armada sank near the coast at Doolin. 170 of the ship’s crew managed to make their way out of the wreck and over to Doolin Castle. The High Sheriff of County Clare arrived and instead of room and board, they were hung.

Arrived in Galway late afternoon and made my way to the Air B&B. Another room with no desk and unpacking space. I have learnt some hard lessons this trip. Anyway an early night was had.

Another adventuresome day beckons – today we are off to Clifden, the Sky Road loop, Kylemore Abbey and Walled Gardens, Leenaun and finally Cong for the night.

Noticed some horsies having breakfast in the foreground and the imposing ‘Twelve Bens’ mountain range in Connemarra in the background. This morning had the perfect glow about it and the water/sky reflections were lovely.

Clifden is a coastal town in County Galway, located on the Owenglin River where it flows into Clifden Bay. The ‘capital’ of Connemarra region with excellent seafood restaurants, lively pubs, and access to nearby dramatic scenery. It’s a popular place to stay for travellers exploring the Wild Atlantic Way.

I was looking for the castle and mistakenly drove into this property ….discovered it was the castle hotel. Ha. Still, I liked the look of it. 4 star with a helipad!

The Sky Road loop is pretty short but stunning. This pic was taken at the final viewpoint and it was lovely to have this creature standing on the pinnacle surveying the vista below. ‘My kingdom, said the horse’.

Kylemore Castle was built in the late 1800s by Mitchell Henry MP, a wealthy businessman, and liberal politician. Inspired by his love for his wife Margaret, and his hopes for his beloved Ireland, Henry created an estate boasting ‘all the innovations of the modern age’. An enlightened landlord and vocal advocate of the Irish people, Henry poured his life’s energy into creating an estate that would showcase what could be achieved in the remote wilds of Connemara. Today Kylemore Abbey is owned and run by the Benedictine community who have been in residence here since 1920.

The Victorian Walled Garden was developed along with the Castle in the late 1800s – it once boasted 21 heated glasshouses and a workforce of 40 gardeners. One of the last walled gardens built during the Victorian period in Ireland, it was so advanced for the time that it was compared in magnificence with Kew Gardens in London.

I had planned to make this my major stop for the day but it didn’t work out that way. The weather had changed dramatically – wind was glacial, rain was spitting and I looked at the queues ahead of me….couldn’t face it. So one pic and off I drove.

Stopped off for lunch at Leenane Hotel and really liked its fit out in the guest lounge room to the side of the bar. Googled its history…they say in their publicity that the hotel has ‘played host to Kings and Mortals for the last three centuries and like all good things, has improved with age! Originally established as a Coach Inn, the earliest records show that there has been an establishment in existence here since the 1790’s.’ Well they provide a warm well, delightful environs and yummy food.

One of the staff recommended I take the longer road route to Cong,(entering the County of Mayo) as it’s a highly scenic ~35-40 kms, bypassing the main roads for dramatic views of Lough Nafooey, the Maumturk Mountains, and Lough Mask. The route takes you along narrow, winding country roads through Joyce Country (historically named after a Welsh family who settled there in the 13th century). Well he was not wrong…loved it.

And I was happy to end the day in Cong, which was made famous by the classic movie The Quiet Man where John Wayne and Maureen O’Hara filmed and is also the location of Ashford Castle (a hotel since the 1930’s). And here’s a statue in their honour…created by Irish sculptor Mark Rode in 2013.