For The Love of Travel

My first stop was at the Bill Reid gallery, established in 2008 as a tribute to the legendary Haida master artist and the living cultures that florish along the Northwest Coast. Belonging to the Raven-Wolf Clan of the Haida Nation, Bill had a long and illustrious career (1920 -1998) as a master goldsmith, carver, sculptor, broadcaster, writer, and community activist. I saw a copy of his well-known wooden sculpture, ‘the Raven and the First Men’, which brings to life a vital Haida myth, depicting the moment the Raven discovered the first people on the beaches of Rose Spit in Haida Gwaii and coaxed them out. An example of his jewellery, the stunning ‘Milky Way necklace’ was on display too. Loved the ‘Haida Raven’ (red and black series) as well.

James Hart and his sons carved this honouring ‘Celebration of Bill Reid’ pole in 2008…with images of a double-finned sea wolf; dogfish; thunderbird; and raven.

There were some tremendous videos playing of Bill sculpting totem poles (it’s really hard work), working on his jewellery creations and Haida painting.

Also of the story of Robert and his brother Reg Davidson, who carved the first totem pole for their community in 1969, after almost a century. (Many of the giant cedar poles that were common across Haida Gwaii had been purposely felled after Christian missionaries deemed them sinful pagan idols, or by assimilationist government policies which allowed collectors, ethnologists and other officials to remove poles under the guise of preservation and study). They didn’t know what they were doing to start off with but learnt ‘on the run’. Just wonderful to experience their journey and the celebration of their aged community who never thought they’d see the day of a totem being raised again.

Kwakwaka’wakw artist, Jamie Gentry, had an exhibition of floral beadwork titled “Blossoming’, so I visited – well, what adorable hand-made and decorated moccasins. Just one example…

The day’s weather improved, some sun came out so I headed for the lookout @ the Harbour Centre. Some glorious examples of views from 169m.

You know I love a gondola ride in whatever country I’m in, because it means …going up…for landscape views. Well, today I took a chance on the Grouse Mountain gondola and was hoping it would clear, but sadly not…a grey day with foggy misty hues in the back ground. Was totally impressed though by the number of people either doing the ‘the Grouse Grind’ and the ‘BCMC’ – both gruelling climbs, gaining 853 meters of elevation over 2.5 to 3 kilometres. While both offer a killer workout, the Grind is an official, highly competitive, stair-heavy route, whereas the BCMC is a less crowded, more rugged natural trail. Pic is of some people emerging after completing these trails…

I had planned to leave the Vancouver Art Gallery visit for my last day (100% rain predicted), but sadly discovered it was closed Tuesday! Went to the Equinox Gallery instead to see ‘Fred Herzog: A Colour Legacy’, a 20thC photographer who revolutionised colour street photography, embracing Kodachrome slide film. He really captures the vitality of everyday urban life, in all its everyday oddness; in working-class neighbourhoods and commercial areas.

The last image is not part of the Fred Herzog exhibition. It’s in one of the side rooms in the gallery, by Adad Hannah, 2021, titled ‘A Studio Portrait’ (loved the positioning of the small glass mirrors and the slightly Salvador Dali effect it created in the image).

My last day today, flying to LA and then Melbourne tomorrow. I have had such a lovely time in Canada, as always. I am leaving some pieces of myself behind in this lovely country and take pieces of it with me!

We set off for Salt Spring Island, the largest and most populous of British Columbia’s Southern Gulf Islands, renowned for its vibrant arts community, organic farms, and natural landscapes. The ferry was late in arriving but we were happy waiting…sun shining, birds singing! The only thing interrupting my serenity was the ichiness on my arms, and back. Called my hotel to discuss whether there could be a bed bug issue…’I’ll call my manager’ was Irena’s response, from reception.

A 20 min journey by ferry and we soon driving to Baynes Peak (on Mount Maxwell), which involves 4kms of bumpiness – on a steep, narrow, and unpaved logging-style gravel road featuring large potholes and rugged stony terrain. Us brave ones, with Jacqui driving the dependable Subaru Crosstrek, made it ….to see the amazing vistas.

Saltspring Island Cheese was our next stop – to sample goat cheeses, as you do. Jacqui loved a truffle chevre (she had sampled previously) and I loved a soft-washed rind cheese called Romalia, paired with onion and thyme jam – delicious. So we got some of both to take home.

We lunched @ Wild Cider on a terrace with a delightful view of the picturesque farm, overlooking mountains. Jacqui and I sampled a float of ciders, she loving the Happy Apricot and I, the Saskatoon Berry. Jack tried Fentimen’s Cola. And we had a delicious lunch from the tapas menu – mushrooms, pesto on brioche; cauliflower bites and chicken karaage – yummy.

Arrived at the ferry half an hour before its scheduled departure, as had a lot of other cars, trucks and RV’s. We were one of 2 last cars that were squeezed onto the back of that ferry – so we luckily didn’t have to wait in a queue for another hour or so for the next to arrive. Just as well, as there drama back at my hotel.

I discovered the hotel maintenance man HAD found a bug problem in my room. And, there was no other available room at the (Buccaneer) Inn. I packed up my luggage and took up Jack and Jacqui’s kind offer to stay with them overnight. Leaving my suitcase on their patio, I took all the clothes out and put them through a double hot wash and dry. Jack drove to the local hardware and got me a can of bed bug killer to spray into, and onto my luggage. Also picked up a couple of pizzas for us for dinner, which we munched while watching Canadian football.

The following morning, journeyed to Ladysmith Old Town bakery for breakfast – I had a jalapeno cream cheese danish and mine hosts had scones. (The scrolls were huge and were dripping with icing – too much for the 3 of us). We love this artwork on the wall of the bakery.

Next, we visited the Westholme Tea Company so Jacqui could buy some green tea (she’s not a coffee drinker). We were offered a sample of the daily ‘special’ green tea, the smoky flavour of which, Jacqui loved. Bargain, tea bought! I loved the rustic Cowichan tea cosy display. And the garden around the tea house was a delight.

Jacqui and Jack wanted to introduce me to another bakery they love at Cowichan Bay – ‘True Grain’. Had to try their apple strudel and energy bar – took them home to share later on.

Last stop was at Chemainus, a scenic seaside town famous as the ‘mural capital of British Columbia.’ Historically a logging town; facing severe economic collapse in the 1980s, the town re-invented itself by progressively painting massive outdoor murals on its buildings, now 50 of them.

A delicious lunch was had, sampling the products we had purchased at Salt Spring Island yesterday. And it was time to catch the Hullo ferry back to Vancouver for the last leg of my holiday. Thank you Jacqui and Jack for a wonderful time as always.

Jack and Jacqui have the ‘day off’ today :).

I hired a car so I could travel south to the capital Victoria. Along this pathway, the Skywalk is an uplifting coastal forest-to-sky experience, a place to wander at your own pace….and it’s accessible to all. 360 degree views from the top of the Mt Baker, Finlayson Arm, the Saanich Peninsula and islands stretching into USA as well as Canada. And there’s a 20m spiral slide (‘the sizzler!)….you hear periodic screams from those unprepared for the fun and fast ride….. :), and that’s a bit unnerving.

Artist Tanya Bub glues together thousands of driftwood pieces to create her striking sculptures – cougars, bears, an owl and bald eagle – all native to Vancouver Island and part of Tanya’s Wild Art collection – they are nestled throughout the Malahat SkyWalk experience.

I chose to see the Abkhazi garden this visit, as I saw the incredible Butchart gardens last time. Amazing history too – in 1920’s Paris, Marjorie (Peggy) Pemberton-Carter meets the exiled Georigian prince, Nicholas Abkhazi and they form a firm friendship. Both were separately interned in prisoner-of-war camps during WW2. Peggy made her way to Victoria post war and bought the large treed and rocky lot that would become Abkhazi garden. In Jan 1946 she received a letter from Nicholas…they reunited and soon got engaged and married in Nov 1946. They worked together on the garden for over 40 years…they called it ‘their child’. I particularly loved the Rhododendron Woodland section and water lily ponds.

Fisherman’s Wharf in Victoria, is a colourful floating village just a short walk from the Inner Harbour. Each painted in bright hues and boasting quirky designs, each house is unique in its own way, and as you walk up and down the marina, you wonder about the local lifestyle and what it would be like living in the interesting tiny homes. Then, there’s the marine life. I kept my eyes peeled for harbour seals but didn’t see any playfully bobbing in the water…a common sight apparently, but not for me today.

Took a drive down Belleville St to see the Houses of Parliament and Fairmont’s Empress Hotel – wow, they are both as I still remembered – so impressive in their architectural impact.

Really enjoyed the day, and keeping the steps up…7,101 today.