For The Love of Travel

You thought you’d seen the last set of cliffs from me didn’t you? Haha… WRONG! More rock, people. Caught the shuttle bus from the visitor centre to the viewpoint (from which various walks start), as otherwise it’s a 30 minute uphill walk from a car park.

Rising almost 2,000 feet (598 meters) above the Atlantic Ocean, Sliabh Liag (Slieve League) is among the highest sea cliffs in Europe. It’s another breathtaking view that I’ve been privileged to see in Ireland.

At nearly three times the height of the Cliffs of Moher, Sliabh Liag rewards visitors with an unrivaled panoramic vista. From the viewing point, you can take in Donegal Bay, stretching toward Leitrim, Sligo, and Mayo, while the vast Atlantic Ocean unfolds endlessly to the west. Looking northwest, you spot Rathlin O’Byrne Island and Glencolmcille. A grey morning with periods of sunshine, but no denying the drama of this landscape.

Beyond the breathtaking views, Sliabh Liag is deeply woven into Ireland’s history and mythology. From here, you can see Benbulben, a table mountain (that I posted a pic of yesterday from the Gleniff Horseshoe loop adventure) – linked to Finn McCool and Irish folklore. Nearby, Carrowmore is home to one of the largest Neolithic cemeteries in Europe, dating back to 3200 BC. Offshore, Inishmurray Island holds the ruins of an early Celtic Christian monastery, while further along the coast in Mayo, Killala marks the landing site of the French forces during the 1798 Rebellion against British rule.

Closer to home, Carrigan Head is home to one of the Napoleonic-era signal towers, built by the British to monitor potential French invasions. Atop Sliabh Liag, there are the remains of an early Christian monastic site, including Aed Mac Bric’s chapel and ancient beehive huts, where monks once sought solitude and spiritual connection.

For the adventurous (not me anymore!), One Man’s Path offers an exhilarating walk along the cliffs’ edge, leading to a trig point placed atop an ancient structure of unknown origin. Revered as a sacred mountain, Sliabh Liag has been a site of Christian pilgrimage for over a thousand years.

Loved the textures and colours in the old rock…

My fave lunch at the moment, especially after a couple of hours of bracing winds and occasional showers, is delicious seafood chowder – well done Ti Linn Cafe @ the visitor centre.

The next adventure today was to drive to Ardara village, through the Glengesh Pass – a dramatic, very bendy mountain pass. Famed for its steep hairpin turns and panoramic views of the glacial valley, this scenic route is part of the Wild Atlantic Way. It’s known for its green, lush, glacial scenery and often free-roaming sheep on the hillsides (and roads).

The Rose Window in the Church of the Holy Family in Ardara, is a world-renowned stained-glass masterpiece designed by Evie Hone and completed in 1954. She was a prominent Irish painter and stained-glass artist known for her modernist, cubist-influenced style. Located in the west gable, the circular window features vibrant, mosaic-style colors including rich greens, deep blues, and tawny earth tones. The color palette and style were influenced by mosaics seen in Ravenna, Italy.

The window is titled “Christ among the doctors” and symbolizes the Word of God. The infant Jesus is positioned in the centre; the surrounding panels: King David with his harp at the top, Moses with tablets at the bottom, and the four Evangelists (Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John) represented by their symbolic winged creatures.

My next stop in Ardara was at Triona Design and immediately fell in love with this ‘purple heather’ lambswool cape/coat. I was told that Sarah Jessica Parker is a follower of the brand (she and family have a holiday home in County Donegal) and when she purchased a checked tweed coat – her endorsement lead to the coat being sold out. Anyway, no chance of that happening as a result of me wearing the purple one 🙂

Back in Donegal, just managed to get droney up late afternoon, before it bucketed down. Donegal castle is centre right, next to the river. The colourful row of houses, if you keep on driving past to the left, lead you to the city square.

Saw this interesting wooden sculpture and googled who was Red Hugh (1571 – 1602) – the son of Ineen Dubh and Hugh O’Donnell, Lord of Tír Chonaill. As a boy he was fostered by several of the noble houses of Ulster. Just before his fifteenth birthday he was captured by the English and was taken to Dublin Castle. He was kept prisoner for four years before he escaped and made his way back to Donegal, travelling in freezing winter weather. On the 3rd May 1592 he was proclaimed Chieftain O’Domhnaill (O’Donnell) at the rock of Doon, at Kilmacrennan, County Donegal.

The O’Donnells fought in the Nine Years War against the English with their allies, the Maguires and the O’Neills. The Battle of Curlew Mountain was one of Red Hugh’s greatest victories. In 1601 help arrived from Spain for the Irish. The Spanish forces landed in Kinsale and Red Hugh set out on the long journey to meet them. The English army, led by Lord Mountjoy, arrived to lay siege to the town and this resulted in the Battle of Kinsale in December 1601. The battle was won by the English and the Irish retreated back to Ulster. Red Hugh left Ireland and travelled to Spain to seek help. After nine months, he was struck down by an illness and died at the age of thirty. He is buried in Vallidolid in Spain.

So a day of dramatic landscapes and weather, art, history, delish lunch and shopping – perfect!

A glorious morning to set off on today’s adventure – to see the Westport quay area; drive ‘the Gleniff Horseshoe’ and behold the Glencar waterfall. Drove along very pleasant back roads surveying the undulating countryside, occasionally being held up by tractors going between fields and cyclists…the latter are very game given the narrowness of the roads.

The Westport Quay is a historic and picturesque waterfront on Clew Bay. Once a bustling 18thC port, its now a popular spot for tourists featuring scenic views of Croagh Patrick, lively pubs and specialty shops. The Westport House is adjacent to the Quay and offers tours and gardens and connects to the area via a scenic walk. ‘Greenway’ is a magnificent 2.5km parkland with walking and cycling trails that link the town centre to the Quay area. And it’s a hub for sailing, boating and fishing.

What a character to come across on my exit from town…a bronze Paddington Bear with (no doubt jam) sandwich overlooking the Carrowbeg River, installed in 2024 as part of the ‘Padddington Visits’ trail.

Just out of Sligo, is the Gleniff Horseshoe – a breathtaking 10km scenic driving loop and walk near Ballintrillick featuring steep glacial cliffs and a secluded valley, surrounded by the dramatic Dartry Mountains. I was surprised how quiet the area was, almost had it to myself. Not complaining! Here are some examples of the views…

And just a few kilometres away from the loop, the lovely 15m Glencar Falls. Its inspired a wealth of artists, songwriters and poets, the most famous of which is William Butler Yeats. His poem ‘Stolen Child’ was inspired by the tumbling waters and beautifully describes the waterfall and waters that flow here. Here’s an excerpt:

“Where the wandering water gushes
From the hills above Glen-Car,
In pools among the rushes
That scarce could bathe a star,
We seek for slumbering trout
And whispering in their ears
Give them unquiet dreams;
Leaning softly out
From ferns that drop their tears
Over the young streams”.

An early morning start in dreadful weather – swirling mist, heavy downpour. To get to the Cliffs of Moher in County Clare was an all morning drive, with the occasional coffee stop. Then, on arrival, queues of cars coming in from both the north and south, vying to get into a visitor carpark. OY! Anyway, finally made it and it was worth the wait.

The beautiful Cliffs of Moher tower over the rugged west Clare coast. They’re famous for a rich 300-million-year-old geology; their sheer, vertical, 8-kilometre stretch along Ireland’s Atlantic coast, rising up to 214 metres at their highest point; and as a filming location for movies like Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince.

There are 800m of paved pathways, with some ‘indecent’ inclines, from which you can view the famous Cliffs and enjoy the spectacular vistas over the ocean and the Aran Islands. Their natural beauty has inspired artists, musicians, and poets for generations, as well as absorbing scientists and geologists, drawn by the unique landscape in which they sit. The Cliffs host major colonies of nesting sea birds and are one of the country’s most important bird-breeding sites.

On my way to Galway, I happen to notice the turret of this castle from the highway, peaking out from the valley and drove to investigate….well, what find. Doonagore (Doolin) Castle on a hill where it offers stunning views of the surrounding countryside and out towards the Aran Islands.

Constructed from sandstone, it’s believed to date from the mid 16th century, but apparently there was a castle on this site (or very close by) as far back as 1,300. Like most of the many castles in Ireland, Doonagore passed through a number of hands over the years. In its early days, the castle passed between two of the strongest clans in County Clare – the O’Brien’s and the O’Connor’s. After the Irish Rebellion of 1641, the castle was granted to a bloke named John Sarsfield as a result of the Cromwellian settlement. Many years later, in the 18th century, Doolin Castle was passed to a family called the ‘Gore’s’. By the mid-19th century, the castle had yet again fallen into a state of disrepair. Then a private buyer named John C. Gorman (an Irish-American) swooped in and bought it. The castle was restored to much of its former glory in the 1970s by an architect named Percy Leclerc. Fast-forward to 2024 and the castle is still owned by John C. Gorman’s family.

The castle has a very dark past…in 1588, a ship from the Spanish Armada sank near the coast at Doolin. 170 of the ship’s crew managed to make their way out of the wreck and over to Doolin Castle. The High Sheriff of County Clare arrived and instead of room and board, they were hung.

Arrived in Galway late afternoon and made my way to the Air B&B. Another room with no desk and unpacking space. I have learnt some hard lessons this trip. Anyway an early night was had.

Another adventuresome day beckons – today we are off to Clifden, the Sky Road loop, Kylemore Abbey and Walled Gardens, Leenaun and finally Cong for the night.

Noticed some horsies having breakfast in the foreground and the imposing ‘Twelve Bens’ mountain range in Connemarra in the background. This morning had the perfect glow about it and the water/sky reflections were lovely.

Clifden is a coastal town in County Galway, located on the Owenglin River where it flows into Clifden Bay. The ‘capital’ of Connemarra region with excellent seafood restaurants, lively pubs, and access to nearby dramatic scenery. It’s a popular place to stay for travellers exploring the Wild Atlantic Way.

I was looking for the castle and mistakenly drove into this property ….discovered it was the castle hotel. Ha. Still, I liked the look of it. 4 star with a helipad!

The Sky Road loop is pretty short but stunning. This pic was taken at the final viewpoint and it was lovely to have this creature standing on the pinnacle surveying the vista below. ‘My kingdom, said the horse’.

Kylemore Castle was built in the late 1800s by Mitchell Henry MP, a wealthy businessman, and liberal politician. Inspired by his love for his wife Margaret, and his hopes for his beloved Ireland, Henry created an estate boasting ‘all the innovations of the modern age’. An enlightened landlord and vocal advocate of the Irish people, Henry poured his life’s energy into creating an estate that would showcase what could be achieved in the remote wilds of Connemara. Today Kylemore Abbey is owned and run by the Benedictine community who have been in residence here since 1920.

The Victorian Walled Garden was developed along with the Castle in the late 1800s – it once boasted 21 heated glasshouses and a workforce of 40 gardeners. One of the last walled gardens built during the Victorian period in Ireland, it was so advanced for the time that it was compared in magnificence with Kew Gardens in London.

I had planned to make this my major stop for the day but it didn’t work out that way. The weather had changed dramatically – wind was glacial, rain was spitting and I looked at the queues ahead of me….couldn’t face it. So one pic and off I drove.

Stopped off for lunch at Leenane Hotel and really liked its fit out in the guest lounge room to the side of the bar. Googled its history…they say in their publicity that the hotel has ‘played host to Kings and Mortals for the last three centuries and like all good things, has improved with age! Originally established as a Coach Inn, the earliest records show that there has been an establishment in existence here since the 1790’s.’ Well they provide a warm well, delightful environs and yummy food.

One of the staff recommended I take the longer road route to Cong,(entering the County of Mayo) as it’s a highly scenic ~35-40 kms, bypassing the main roads for dramatic views of Lough Nafooey, the Maumturk Mountains, and Lough Mask. The route takes you along narrow, winding country roads through Joyce Country (historically named after a Welsh family who settled there in the 13th century). Well he was not wrong…loved it.

And I was happy to end the day in Cong, which was made famous by the classic movie The Quiet Man where John Wayne and Maureen O’Hara filmed and is also the location of Ashford Castle (a hotel since the 1930’s). And here’s a statue in their honour…created by Irish sculptor Mark Rode in 2013.