My last day in Milan reserved for visiting Sforzesco Castle in the green expanse of Sempione Park – an imposing military citadel built by Francesco Sforza, Duke of Milan in the 15th century, is one of the most important monuments in Milan and throughout history, this imposing complex has played many roles: defensive fortress, ducal residence and military barracks. At different times, the Venetians, French, Spanish and Austrians took control of the castle, but the Milanese finally wrested control in 1859.

Nowadays, its magnificent interior hosts Milano’s Municipal museums and other cultural institutions, and the castle grounds are fascinating in themselves, with large courtyards, massive walls, moat, towers, and crenulated battlements. Hard to photo but amazing to walk around.

At the end of the 15th century, the then Duke, Ludovico il Moro, had the castle interiors completely restyled from defensive architecture to stylish, elegant solutions. He gave instructions on decoration and dictated the dress code of his lavishly elegant court. He also filled his calendar with musical events and experimented with new crops in the castle park, where he took visiting aristocrats and ambassadors on hunting trips. 

Leonardo da Vinci – artist, futuristic engineer and master of ceremonies, an accomplished painter, architect and musician, spent the longest and most prolific part of his life Milan, adopting it as his home. He planned parties for the Duke, like a luxury wedding planner!

Since the Duke loved art at least as much as he loved parties, in 1498, he asked Leonardo to decorate his “Sala delle Asse”. Leonardo painted the walls and ceiling to resemble a pergola of mulberry trees as a tribute to Ludovico Sforza – the tree a reference to his nickname, “il Moro”. It also brought to mind the silk industry that was developing quickly in northern Italy. 

Beautiful 17th Century German stain-glass windows, with entire scenes painted in coloured enamels and fused onto clear glass are displayed in one area of the museum.

The ‘gonfalon’ display gets your attention as soon as you walk into the room. A 16thC city decoration, embroidered, painted and encrusted with precious stones, its 5 metres x 3 metres and was carried in processions. It depicts St Ambrose brandishing a whip. At his feet, two soldiers symbolising the episode of the saint driving out the Aryans.

Also, a beautifully intricate full stained glass window, carefully transported from the Villa Mosterts in Lombardy…

As I exited the castle, noticed photos hanging in walkways surrounding a castle square. Discovered a beautiful tradition since 2016…. on Valentine’s day, a local photographer and journo, Silvio Amodio, invites people to have their picture taken with their fur baby: for years, the Sforza Castle hosting this event with a free exhibition that has been visited by over a million visitors, like me!  All the photographic portraits are collected in a catalog, the proceeds of which are donated to a dog kennel in Milan. So delightful! Here are Daniele Mazzini, a superintendent of local police and manager of a dog training school; and Mr Wilson with his owner Francesca.

Meet Minny, Gipsy and Chicco with their owners Stefano and Roberto.

Often overlooked in favour of other cities like Rome, Florence and Venice, Milan is a cosmopolitan city which effortlessly blends history and modernity with elegance. Art and culture thrive here, and you’ll find everything from grand cathedrals and world-class museums to fashion boutiques and cutting-edge design stores. Milan was tremendous to visit.