Drove from Muscat to Birkat Al-Mawz (“Pool of the Plaintains”), one of the famous villages in ruins in Oman and home to the 1500 year old Falaj system irrigation system listed as a UNESCO heritage (using a well to pump up water from underground and water channels being directed across terraces to the land to be irrigated). I walked through one of its palm tree oasis’ and through the village. 

Drove up Al Jebal Al Akhdar (the “green mountain”?? – very dry when I was there), the central section of the Al Hajar mountain range in Oman – had to use 4WD low gear for some of the descent! 

Good preparation for my journey to Jebel Shams, along the western part of the 300 kms Al Hajar mountain chain, the following day.   On my way to Jebel Shams, visited the Tanuf mud brick village, which was once a crucial part of the Al Dakhiliya region of Oman, but the ruins are an indication of its dramatic history – they are a memorial to British-backed bombings of rebel villages in the late 1950’s, who were opposed to the Sultan of Muscat increasing his control to become the Sultan of Oman.  

Then to Misfat Al Abryeen, a unique mountain village about 1000m above sea level on the mountain foothills surrounding Al Hamra., reached by driving up a zigzagged road which is paved to the village entrance. The village interior could be described as Oman’s “Positano” – steep stairs that weave down and across the mountainside, levelling out on occasions to allow for mud homes with palm frond roofs, to be built on solid rock alongside the agricultural terraces, gardens and plantations. Heavy going in the midday sun, when I arrived. But discovered a lovely little oasis called “Misfah Old House” at which to have a cold bottle of water, coffee or lunch. Or all 3, as happened in my case. And as I rounded a corner after lunch, a beautiful little model prepared to pose for me….

Then to Jebel Shams (mountain of the sun), the highest point in Oman, some 3000 metres. Beautiful views over valleys of with multiple layers of sharp peaked mountains fading into the background. Glad I had that prep the day before…a desolate road, the tarmac giving way to a dusty unpaved bumpy road that requires a pair of skilful hands to navigate! No guard rail, so even a small oversight means disaster, hurtling to the bottom of the local canyon! But once up the top, what a vista! Especially from the Al Nakhr Canyon, the “Grand Canyon” of Arabia.

I thought it would be a great place to gaze at the starlit night sky and experiment with some night photography….discovered there was still some light pollution from nearby villages….ah well. Still working on the technique…

4 hour drive from Jebel Shams in Oman to Al Ain over the border to UAE, my next stopping off spot. Border crossing was surprisingly easy!

Have I mentioned before that Oman was pretty alcohol free everywhere? Discovered when I got to Al Ain that they have a couple of alcohol stores…..went on advice from my hotel to the cheapest store, “High Spirits”….its next door to the Hilton Hotel….turn right at the ring road, go 50m, turn left down a lane that looks like you’re headed for the tip…and bingo!….you have found the little hut that looks like an old outpatient clinic entrance with a ramp….no outside advertising of its function. Hysterical! Have to thank my expatriate mate at the hotel for clear instructions!!  

Abu Dhabi tomorrow – woo hoo.