Plyos, the pearl of the Volga, is a tranquil town of old wooden houses and hilly streets winding down to the river. 

The town’s historical renown stems from an artist’s retreat in the late 19th century, Issac Levitan, Russia’s most celebrated landscape painter. It was he who made the view from Sobornaya Hill, one of Russia’s most recognised images.  Plyos became wealthy in the 19th century and brick buildings were built there when the small town on the Volga became a centre for bread and fish trade in Russia.

The mansions of past merchants are still a delight to the eye on the embankment walkway.  In the 19th century, Plyos had already become a favourite destination as a retreat for the nobility, artists and other holidaymakers from Moscow on hot summer days.  It was at this time, when Plyos was a holiday town that the painter Issac Levitan came here with his friends. Plyos’ themes were reflected in Levitan’s paintings called Quiet Abode and Evening Bells, as well as in many others.

The Church of the Resurrection dominates market square and was built in the 19th century in honour of the victory over Napolean. During the Soviet era, the church was closed and fell into disrepair. In the early 2010’s, the church was resurrected thanks to a large sum of money from the then Russian President Medvedev.

Ex-Prime Minister Medvedev’s multibillion-rouble, 80 hectare country estate made history in the area, with anti-corruption activists claiming it has a murky money trail. Politician Alexey Navalny, published a drone video that shows the 19th century manor buildings, guest houses, staff hotel, private ski run, 3 helipads and a multi-tiered pool.

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The delightfully quirky Chastnyy Vizit hotel was my home for the night. Excellent customer service, hospitality, delicious food with elegant presentation.

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