King Haakon Bay lies between Nunez Peninsula and Bomford Peninsula near the western end of the south coast of South Georgia.  It was here that Shackleton and crew arrived in the James Caird in 1916, after another gruelling voyage from Elephant Island. Despite unchartered waters and a jagged reef to manoeuvre past, they guided the vessel into the protection of the bay and found a small cove and cave to offer protection from the elements. Here among the cliffs at Cape Rosa’s headland, Shackleton’s men found fresh water and albatross chicks for fresh meat, which sustained them over the next 4 days while they recuperated and repaired their boat. They then sailed further into King Haakon Bay, landing at Peggotty Bluff, and made a 36 hour trek across the island to the Grytviken whaling station to reach help.

Today our first stop is at Peggotty Bay, another early 5.45am first light zodiac anding. Bleary-eyed, we stumble onshore and walk for a while. Then the sun comes up and the landscape is transformed – I stand on a hillside and view the delightful scenery.

To my left, rivers of silver glisten in the rays, with soaring cliffs covered in cloud and glaciers as a backdrop.  

To my right, squishy mossy green turf, with small water holes, glacier topped mountains in the distance and a bright blue sky! Magic!

Next to Cape Rosa headland in King Haakon Bay – it is a dramatic, weather-beaten fjord, surrounded by snow clad mountains rising to over 1,000m.

We briefly visited Cave Cove, took a photo outside the cave Shackleton and his men lived in for 4 days, and jumped back into the zodiac (big waves coming into shore so we had to be nimble!!) to journey back to the ship. 

We saw a South Georgia Pippit!  A bird once made almost extinct by rats on the island is now breeding again, thanks to a rat extermination/baiting program implemented over 125 square kilometres by the Heritage trust over the past 5 years. Very cute colours and we saw about a dozen in  an hour’s zodiac cruising. Also, a Kelp Gull, a Brown Skua, South Georgia Pintail and a couple of Imperial (Blue-Eyed) Shags.  

We sail through the Willis Islands with a breathtaking iceberg appearing out of nowhere….calved off a glacier at some stage and with brilliant blue hues! Gorgeous!