“If you were to take a giant carving knife, slice along one of the highest mountain ridges in Switzerland, just where the huge glaciers tumble into the valley below, and then drop your slice of mountain, dripping with sugar icing, into the sea, I think you would get a fair idea of the place” (Niall Rankin, 1946).

South Georgia is cold, wet and windy. It forms part of the Scotia Arc, curving out from South America to the South Sandwich Islands and then back to the Antarctic Peninsula. Throughout the year, it sits below the convergence. in 1775, Captain Cook landed in Possession Bay and claimed the island for King George III. 

50 ships carrying 6,000 passengers visit annually. The UK Government, requires ship operators to be a part of the International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators (IAATO), and to adhere to rules which prevent any form of environmental impact or unacceptable wildlife observance. There are no permanent inhabitants but there are 3 government officers and museum staff in summer.

We spent the night at anchor in Gold Harbour, near the southern end of South Georgia. An early wake up call at 4.45am for zodiac crossings to the island to see the large King penguin colony, fur and elephant seals and light mantled sooty albatross. The backdrop of huge mountains and a tumbling Bertrab glacier make this a photographer’s paradise.  

The light from sunrise was beautiful this morning…the King penguins chests glistening a brilliant white in the rays of the sun. A bit of penguin porn at dawn as well (a pair was ‘breeding’). Seals were playing on land and in the water, penguins were swimming, elephant seals lumbering their huge torsos along the sandy beach. Baby seals would rush at us with brash enthusiasm and then take a leap back, thinking ooooh, “a little too close to that large strange thing”. An amazing amount of activity! We had 2 gorgeous hours with them.

St Andrew’s Bay is home to the largest King penguin colony on South Georgia, numbering over 100,00 pairs. It spans the length of the glacial river – but we didn’t get to visit because of the inhospitable weather/choppy sea. Not good for a zodiac landing. Ocean Harbour, a little bay further on, instead. Lots of seals and seal pups await us at a late landing of 16.45. An hour’s walk around and we are back on board. A night at anchor in Jason harbour, where we see the sister ship, Orion.