Got up early for the 2 + hours drive into Wroclaw. Crazy shenanigans on the autostrada, with guys ‘channelling’ Mario Andreotti, weaving in and out of laneways, at I reckon 150kms. Scary!

Wroclaw may never have lost its ancient Polish element – 20,000 Poles lived here before World War II – but Poles would never have imagined that the city would become a part of the motherland again.  Wroclaw became Polish again by default. Stalin prodded Churchill and Roosevelt into rolling Poland west in 1945. Poland lost the cities of Lwow and Vilnius and gained the bombed out shells of Breslau (Wroclaw) and Danzig (Gdansk).      As soon as I got into Wroclaw, breathed a sigh of relief….now this is a city I like. Lots of green, old architecture, cafes and restaurants….time to wander aimlessly around the Old Town, keeping my eyes peeled for Wroclaw’s adorable and elusive gnomes; there are over 300 around town.

But first, I’d booked into the Raclawice Panorama, a 140m long canvas depicting Kosciuszko’s legendary (and short-lived) victory over the Russians in 1794 – this is one of the only remaining panoramic paintings in the world – a genre popular in the 19thC.

Then to view the Old City from the top of the Cathedral of St John the Baptist, a Gothic church and landmark in the city. A climb of 50 steps up a narrow stone staircase and mercifully, a lift to the top.  An amazing view over Cathedral Island, and once back in the church, incredible gold door that leads to the top of the pulpit, inside. Loved the leadlight as well.

And a lover’s bridge that’s packing heaps of locks!

When you tire gazing at cherubs, gargoyles and bearded national heroes, you can find your way to the cnr. of Pilsudskiego and Swidnicka to get a new take on public art….Jerzy Kalina’s wonderfully lifelike bronze “Anonymous Pedestrians” descending into the earth – a tribute to those who worked in underground organisations to undermine the Soviet regime? They would have looked even better in rainy conditions!

Love my boutique hotel on the edge of the old city, surrounded by parkland and part of a hipster neighbourhood! THE most delicious salmon meal I have EVER had, I think cooked sous-vide. It was perfect! 

I walked past Nalanda cafe and was instantly drawn inside…its vegan, gluten free, eco cosmetics – with a bookstore. A special place where good literature, fair trade coffee, and energy-giving food is all under one roof.