Brekkie this morning is huge and will keep me fuelled for 2 meals…at least.
My first port of call today is Market Square (Rynek), the city’s municipal centre but also the social and cultural centre -a place of happenings, concerts, performance art, lined with terraced cafes and restaurants. Originally built in the 13thC, it was ravaged by fighting in WW2 and had to be rebuilt in the 1950’s. Proudly square-shouldered in the square’s centre stands the Town Hall, a miraculous survivor from the 13thC and the city centre’s defining landmark. The neighbouring Flower Market operates 24 hours a day, with scores of flower sellers available in the event of a matrimonial emergency, and ready to meet the requirements of empty-fisted Romeos – such is the importance of flower-giving in Polish society. Love the fountain in the midst of all the flowers and autumn leaved trees…
The University Church (of the Blessed Name of Jesus) is late Baroque, ranked one of the most beautiful in Central Europe. Jesuits built it as part of the University complex in the 17thC – frescos on the vaults; painted to imitate marble and gilt – its very well-preserved and most of the furnishings are original.
The University building is magnificent and still functions as an academic building. Past professors include Alois Alzheimer and Robert Bunsen. Since the start of the 20thC, the Uni has produced a remarkable 9 Nobel Prize winners.
A little picturesque alleyway, Jatki, is home to numerous artists studios and souvenir stalls (in past times, the principal industry here was meat – butchered beasts filled wooden stalls). The defining feature of the street is the collection of bronze farm animals, sculpted by Piotr Wieczorek in the 1990’s, this “Memorial to Slaughtered Animals” was funded by local government.
Lastly, view over river Oder towards Cathedral island (Ostrow Tumski); and some lovely architecture around the National Museum, I didn’t visit inside, museum’d out at present.
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