I’m not really a train aficionado but I loved the slow 3-hour Serra Verde “Express” train ride from Curitiba to Morretes, through what remains of the world’s Atlantic Rainforest, the 4% left in the southern part of Brazil, which the United Nations is now trying to preserve.

Its an eye-popping ride, looking out the open windows at the beautiful rolling hills, deep valleys, and verdant rainforest vegetation everywhere!  See the train going over a metal bridge? Look at next photo with tiny brown bridge in the middle of the forest!!

The Serra Verde train route was an impressive engineering feat for its time. It was built in the 1880s and was completed within 5 years. The train connects the cities of Curitiba and Paranagua, spanning 610 kilometers (380 miles). The train passes through 14 tunnels and goes over 30 bridges. At one point in the route, it goes from sea level to 3/4 of a mile high.

Loved the state tree of Parana, the Candalabra conifer… a popular valley tree in subtropical areas, planted for its unusual effect of the thick, ‘reptilian’ branches with a very symmetrical appearance. Very sculptural. In Brazil, 7,500,000 lbs of edible seeds, similar to large pine nuts, are collected annually which, combined with extensive logging, seriously threatens the regeneration of the species. The tree has now lost an estimated 97% of its habitat. It is therefore listed as critically endangered. 

We stopped in Morretes for a Parana state food specialty, “barreado” (tender beef stew, mixed with cassava flour and served with banana) lunch at a sunny riverside patio table. You’ll have to take it from me that it’s quite a rich concoction, and tasty, but looks like what a cat has thrown up though!  

Here is our waiter testing whether he got the stew/flour consistency right, Maya is hoping yes and Leandro is in stitches! Both from São Paulo were fun to lunch with and then stroll around Morretes. Built in the 18th century, Morretes is located next to the River Nhundiaquara and is ringed by lush mountains. A sleepy town during the week, apparently buzzes on the weekends…in varying stages of decay, renovation.