San Carlos de Bariloche (commonly called Bariloche), in Argentina’s Patagonia, is a town bordering Lago Nahuel Huapi, a large glacial lake surrounded by the snow-crowned Andes.  The name Bariloche means “people from behind the mountain”. The indigenous Poya people used the Bariloche pass to cross the Andes, keeping it secret from the Spanish priests until the 16th C. 

The explorations of Franciso Moreno and the Argentine campaigns of the “Conquest of the Desert” established the claims of the Argentine government. In the 1881 border treaty between Chile and Argentina, the Nahuel Huapi area was recognised as Argentinian. The modern settlement of Bariloche developed from a shop established by Carlos Wiederhold.  A small settlement developed around the shop, and its former site is the city centre.  By 1895, the settlement was primarily made up of German-speaking immigrants as well as Italians from the city of Belluno, and Chileans. In the 1930’s, the centre of the city was redesigned to have the appearance of a traditional European central alpine town (it was called “Little Switzerland”) .

It’s currently known for its Swiss alpine architecture and its chocolate, sold in shops lining Calle Mitre, the main street. I tried chocky delights at Mamuschka, Frantom and Rapa Nui (roughly $3 for 100g) and wow! they melt in your mouth…they specialise in what I describe as the “Sarah Lee effect”, layer upon layer.. upon layer.. of chocolate with other incorporated delicious flavours. 

It’s also a popular base for hiking and skiing. Dominating the view in all directions along the Chilean border, the snowcapped cone of 3776m (12,388ft) Volcán Lanín is the centerpiece of Parque Nacional Lanín, which extends 150km (93mi) from Parque Nacional Nahuel Haupi in the south to Lago Ñorquinco in the north.  

After the previous day’s 12 hour journey across the lakes….I was a total tourist for the day I had in Bariloche – took the Circuito Chico tour in the afternoon. That was amazing….panoramic views across Lake Nahuei Huapi…..interesting intro to history of the establishment of the city centre by Carlos Wiederhold, and his lovely hotel, Llao Llao (pronounced Shao Shao).