We stayed at the Ocean Crest motel….very cheap accommodation, dog friendly, but oozing fumes from its ‘take away kitchen’ at night…..not one we’ll EVER return to.

Victor Harbour, known by the Ramindjeri people as Nulcoowarra, is a coastal town. Since 1860’s, horse-drawn trams have transferred goods across the causeway to the Granite Island settlement …..home to a wild penguin colony. Lynne and I booked to be transported to Granite Island on the first morning trip, but discovered they had rescheduled the tramway timings by an hour…so we walked across instead. I loved seeing Rebecca Rose’s ‘In Awe’, comprising 56 oars collected from rowing clubs across NZ – reflecting on the circumstances that precipitated ancestors to pick up their oars and make those journeys. Good exercise for the morning and we got to catch the first horse back….haha!

We picked Stef up and headed for a walk of a section of the Victor Harbour Heritage Trail, from Petrel Cove towards Kings Beach, probably about 4kms return. Absolutely breathtakingly beautiful coastline……a challenge for photos because of the angle of the sun. Stef, Lynne and Mitzy really enjoying the environs!

A short drive from Victor Harbour to the Hindmarsh Valley, and there’s a short walk down about 200 steps to the official lookout to see the Hindmarsh Falls, but you can peep through the trees on the descent, to see water cascading over numerous pools.

Off to Goolwa the following day, a historic river port on the Murray River, where the Murray mouth and South Ocean meet and gateway to the Coorong National Park – of enormous cultural significance to the Ngarrindjeri people, with ancient mounds of discarded shells throughout the park revealing archaeological evidence of campsites over thousands of years. Also where ‘Storm Boy’ was filmed in 1976.

Saltwater Cafe for lunch, with Mitzy in our bad books, because of her barky behaviour vis-a-vis other tethered (and ‘chilled’) canines.

We did a lovely drive along the Goolwa waterways towards the Barrage, a dam constructed in 1940, to restrict salt water ingress into the river during tidal events, as well as maintaining water levels in the lower lakes. Lots of birds gather here: we saw terns, grey herons and pelicans.

Then across the bridge to Hindmarsh Island. Captain Charles Sturt stood on the highest point on the island when he identified and mapped the mouth of the River Murray. We looked for Cape Barren geese but alas, none in sight. Just did a stroll along the waterfront.

We stopped off at the award-winning ArtWorx gallery, just out of Goolwa. Fantastic paintings by local and interstate artists, indoor and outdoor sculptures, jewellery, ceramics and artisan timber works – so much to see and delight in. I had to get “the Climber”…and 3 flying pelicans for Lynne.

Another highlight of our trip was the beautiful Port Elliott, situated on sheltered Horseshoe Bay, a small bay off the much larger Encounter Bay. The port was established to provide a safe seaport for Murray River trade which terminated at Goolwa. Goods and passengers were carried between Goolwa and Port Elliott on the first public railway in Australia completed in 1854. We strolled over a part of the Harbourmaster’s Walking Trail with delightful coastal views.

Overnighter at Victor Harbour, with a delish dinner at the Golf Club bistro.

And bid a fond farewell to the area next morning @ Qahwa Coffee Roasters Espresso Bar for brekkie – with a view of the Fleurieu volleyball courts next door! Only in SA!