We decided our only real stop today would be at the Chateau de Angers. It’s situated on a rocky outcrop overlooking the Maine river, and was occupied in turn by Neolithic man, Gauls and Romans. Cradle of the Plantagenet dynasty, the palace of the Counts of Anjou was erected here in the 10th c. The fortress, with its impressive 500 m-long ramparts and 17 towers, was constructed in 1230. The Dukes of Anjou built the great chapel, royal lodge and gatehouse during the 14thC and 15thC. In the late 16thC, the tower-tops were levelled in order to adapt the fortifications for the use of artillery, including cannons. A prison until 1856 and a barracks until 1947, this historic landmark, now managed by the Centre des Monuments Nationaux, is a showcase for the unique medieval masterpiece, the Apocalypse Tapestry.

The Apocalypse Tapestry was commissioned around 1377 by Louis I, Duke of Anjou, son of one King of France and brother of another. It’s the largest medieval tapestry known in the world.

Its history is turbulent. It was certainly used as a monumental decoration for special occasions.   The 90 different scenes tell the story of the Book of Revelation – the Bible’s last gasp of horror, retribution and redemption.

It was made after the 100 yrs War and pestilence (plague and famine) had killed millions in Europe. The tapestry is grotesque and daunting, yet mesmerising in its beauty and intricacy.  

Revelation was written by St John the Divine, who had been banished by the Romans to the Aegean island off of Patmos (apparently after being plunged into boiling oil in Rome and suffering no injuries).  It marks the final battle between good and evil –  Satan as a dragon and Christ as a lamb.  

It’s remarkable that the tapestry exists, given that during the French Revolution, it was looted, cut into pieces, and used as floor mats and blankets for horses. The pieces were gathered back by a ‘canon/edict ‘of the Cathedral and all but 16 were found and restored.

It tells you all you need to know about fear – and hope.

An hour’s journey to get to Nantes, and visit Trentemoult, a former fishing village belonging to the town of Reze, now a hipster centre with artists-a-plenty and brightly painted cottages from the 18th and 19thC. The houses are usually set over 3 floors, with the lowest only being used for storage as the Loire bursts its banks regularly. 

Terry and John recommended we ‘swan’ past Les Machines on the west side of the Ile de Nantes -inhabited by whimsical animatronic creatures inspired by Jules Verne’s writings and Leonardo da Vinci’s fanciful gizmos  and brought to life by Francois Delaroziere. The Grand Elephant, all 12 metres of him, was unfortunately in ‘maintenance’, so only a pic of his face. Awh!

We visited Rosalind, Terry’s cousin, who’s lived in France for over 30 years. She’s renowned as a contralto in the chorus of the Nantes Opera company but importantly, has had solo parts. She’s had a science, linguistics and arts background….amazing person, who is sooo hospitable! And, made us a great dinner: salmon and mackerel as entree; vege salad as main; these gorgeous little parcels of differently flavoured custard cream…yum! And can I mention Ros enticed me to try ….’John Powers whiskey’, (she recently got when travelling in Ireland)…..it was GREAT! So smoothe and mellow, given 3 distillations… I’m hooked!