Walked along the very pleasant 2km Philosopher’s Path, which follows a canal lined by hundreds of cherry trees which explode with colour (in early April). Great day for a stroll on a balmy 20 degree day, listening to the flowing water and birdsong. Only one cherry blossom tree in bloom. Stopped off at a cute little store selling carved statues.
Sanjusangen-do temple is famous for the 1001 statues of Kannon, the goddess of compassion and the other 28 sculptures of Buddhist guardian deities featured in the front row.
There are willow trees outside, their low green branches hanging low to the ground, used to purify those who come for a blessing during the annual Rite of the Willow. Its not often you’d see 2,000 20 yr old women decked out in kimonos participating in an archery competition….you do at the annual Festival of the Great Target, held on temple grounds, where young women display patience, self-control and celebrate reaching adulthood.
The Kitano Tenman-gu Shrine was first built in 947 to appease the angry spirit of the bureaucrat, scholar and poet Sugawara no Michizane, who had been exiled as a result of political manoeuvres of his enemies in the Fujiwara clan.
The grounds are filled with Michizane’s favourite tree, the red and white plum blossom…and there was an early blooming to behold when I visited. Also a cute couple getting married and an entourage of their friend photographers.
The Sogenchi Teien landscape garden @Tenryu-ji temple (Temple of the Heavenly Dragon) is one of the oldest in Japan, designed in the 14thC by Muso Soseki. Delightful to stroll around, the lake with koi, and you get the edges of the Arashiyama bamboo forest to photograph as well.
The Saihoji moss garden I first saw when Monty Don did a special on TV on ‘Japanese gardens’….I was hooked. Booked on line to make sure I got a 10am entrance reservation. You are treated to a very zen experience ….firstly you are sent articles on Buddhism to read before you get there; then spend a few minutes clearing your mind and practicing some Japanese calligraphy writing ‘sutras’, before then commencing your journey of discovery walking around the moss garden. Delightful morning.
The beautifully golden Kinkaku-ji Shrine is a Zen temple…also built in the 14thC and part of the Kitayama palace complex used to welcome Emperors of Japan and trading partners from China. Each of its 3 floors has a different architectural style, with its top 2 floors being completely covered in gold leaf. The structure overlooks a large pond and the effect of the sun’s reflections makes for a lovely photo.
I treated myself to a French lunch at the “Bistro and wine -en” just down the pathway from my hotel, along the canal, a 3 course lunch for $3,200yen (or $32). Absolutely delicious ‘amuse bouche’, salmon salad, beef cheek in red wine jus and a teenie tiny slice of cheesecake – perfect! Its run by a delightful couple who take great care with presentation of the food and of their customers.
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