For The Love of Travel

Walked along the very pleasant 2km Philosopher’s Path, which follows a canal lined by hundreds of cherry trees which explode with colour (in early April). Great day for a stroll on a balmy 20 degree day, listening to the flowing water and birdsong. Only one cherry blossom tree in bloom. Stopped off at a cute little store selling carved statues.

Sanjusangen-do temple is famous for the 1001 statues of Kannon, the goddess of compassion and the other 28 sculptures of Buddhist guardian deities featured in the front row.

There are willow trees outside, their low green branches hanging low to the ground, used to purify those who come for a blessing during the annual Rite of the Willow. Its not often you’d see 2,000 20 yr old women decked out in kimonos participating in an archery competition….you do at the annual Festival of the Great Target, held on temple grounds, where young women display patience, self-control and celebrate reaching adulthood.

The Kitano Tenman-gu Shrine was first built in 947 to appease the angry spirit of the bureaucrat, scholar and poet Sugawara no Michizane, who had been exiled as a result of political manoeuvres of his enemies in the Fujiwara clan.

The grounds are filled with Michizane’s favourite tree, the red and white plum blossom…and there was an early blooming to behold when I visited. Also a cute couple getting married and an entourage of their friend photographers.

The Sogenchi Teien landscape garden @Tenryu-ji temple (Temple of the Heavenly Dragon) is one of the oldest in Japan, designed in the 14thC by Muso Soseki. Delightful to stroll around, the lake with koi, and you get the edges of the Arashiyama bamboo forest to photograph as well.

The Saihoji moss garden I first saw when Monty Don did a special on TV on ‘Japanese gardens’….I was hooked. Booked on line to make sure I got a 10am entrance reservation. You are treated to a very zen experience ….firstly you are sent articles on Buddhism to read before you get there; then spend a few minutes clearing your mind and practicing some Japanese calligraphy writing ‘sutras’, before then commencing your journey of discovery walking around the moss garden. Delightful morning.

The beautifully golden Kinkaku-ji Shrine is a Zen temple…also built in the 14thC and part of the Kitayama palace complex used to welcome Emperors of Japan and trading partners from China. Each of its 3 floors has a different architectural style, with its top 2 floors being completely covered in gold leaf. The structure overlooks a large pond and the effect of the sun’s reflections makes for a lovely photo.

I treated myself to a French lunch at the “Bistro and wine -en” just down the pathway from my hotel, along the canal, a 3 course lunch for $3,200yen (or $32). Absolutely delicious ‘amuse bouche’, salmon salad, beef cheek in red wine jus and a teenie tiny slice of cheesecake – perfect! Its run by a delightful couple who take great care with presentation of the food and of their customers.

Narita is a BIG airport…lots of walking between international and domestic terminals! Very cute walkway ‘pichu anime’ murals that cheered me up.

A 2 hr Jetstar flight from Tokyo got me to Kagoshima, at the southern most tip of Kyushu island. I was in row 1J which gave me a lovely view of the approach into Kagoshima. Might have been either the Kotsuki or Nagata Rivers below? The weather report promises temperate climes for the next few days. Yay!

My first Japanese breakfast – an assortment of goodies and happy with the protein and veggie offerings mostly.

Very popular locally, but I wasn’t prepared for the rental vehicle…a Nissan cube car. Seats not comfortable after a couple of hours. Thought to self…must make sure I don’t get one of these for the 4 week journey out of Kyoto! Speeds have been drastically reduced on local roads (40km) and freeways (50km mostly, but some 80km sections). Locals of course totally ignore and sail past me.

I downloaded the best cherry blossom forecast app (Sakura Navi) and saw that my best chance today with 94% growth stage prediction, was at Tadamoto garden, some 75 kms from Kagoshima city. So made my way there as my first stop on the Kyushu Expressway. Managed to work out how to pay tolls as well (so impressed with myself!). Unfortunately, no blossoms whatsoever on arrival, but workman were eagerly awaiting said blooms, putting up lanterns in anticipation of evening revelry to come.

Next, the Kirishima mountain range, from which springs flow into the Sendai River, and home to the Sogi Waterfall midstream. The “Niagara of the Orient”….210m wide and 12m tall, the waterfall is a stunning sight and the noise as it thunders over the Senjoiwa rock its carved, is incredible. There are a few observation platforms from which to admire close-up views of the Falls. And a large park along the river full of trees and flowers that provide different scenery throughout the year. Not blossoms today though, doh!

Electioneering on the freeway….lots of posters of primarily males…offering themselves as candidates for the House of Reps…this one particularly cracked me up…an ‘action Jackson type’, swinging his ‘big boy’ suit jacket onto his shoulders, with such an earnest demeanour; and a Democratic Party candidate, Hiroshi Kawauchi, who’s previously been elected (2017-21).

Shiroyama Park Observation Deck offers a panoramic view of Sakurajima, Kagoshima Bay and Kagoshima City. Shiroyama is a small mountain with an altitude of 107m, located in the centre of the city.

Visited Sengan-en, the traditional 12 acre garden and stately home built from Yakushima cedar by the 19th head of the Shimadzu family, Mitsuhisa in 1658. Peaceful ponds, bubbling streams, mysterious shrines, a bamboo grove and a mountain hiking trail with a breathtaking panoramic view of the volcano just 4kms across the bay.

This smouldering monument to the power of nature was the main reason for the house being built in this location. A more muted pic today of the volcano as it was overcast, but beautifully framed by the garden, don’t you think?

There’s also a glassworks, and I watched master craftsmen blow and cut Satsuma Kiriko crystal glass…mesmerising!

Last task for the day….travel on the sleek and aerodynamically super fast Kyushu Shinkansen to Kyoto and settle in for a week! Yay!