For The Love of Travel

I got up early to see the Chateau de Sully-sur-Loire, first driving through Germigny-des-Pres. Very moody and misty. This village is home to one of France’s unique treasures, the Carolingian Oratory, dating back to 806, one of France’s oldest churches. It’s renowned for its exceptional mosaic, which adorns the semi-dome vault, comprising 130,000 pieces of gold, silver, glass and stone.

Fleury Abbey at Saint-Benoit-sur-Loire, founded in 640 is one of the most celebrated Benedictine monasteries of Western Europe, and possesses the relics of St Benoit, which are considered important objects of pilgrimage for believers.

Chateau de Sully-sur-Loire has a pointed-arch framework, a petit chateau and keep and an important character is attached to its history, Maximillen de Bethune, the Duke of Sully (the first Minister and good friend of Henry IV, who bought the castle in 1606). The building had 2 main functions – defence, with the presence of moats, drawbridges, rampart walk, arrow slits …protecting the river crossing on the Loire which allowed exchanges between Paris and the rest of the country. It also needed to ‘impress’/’make a statement’ – to demonstrate the lord’s power. Maximillen ordered the construction of the artillery tower to strengthen the ‘townside’ of the castle, and 3 passageways to connect the different parts of the site and filled the moats with water. Genius! 

When I got back to Orleans that morning, Terry, John and I walked a bit around Orleans. We loved Hotel Groslot with its delightful garden, which has housed the town council since the Revolution, but it was once the ‘King’s guesthouse’. Then past the Cathedral Sainte-Croix with the statue of a person carrying a sheep (a ‘nod’ to Joan of Arc, ex-shepherdess I thought), to the Musee des Beaux Arts – what a collection! 

Portraits of jaunty gents; a post modernist interpretation of the Battle for Orleans (above); ivory sculptures; porcelain plates; cherubs; still life of beautiful flowers; limbless Renaissance heroines going into battle …..so much to absorb.

Next to Beaugency, a quiet town located in the ‘valley of kings’, on the Loire river, between Orleans and Blois. The most important event in the turbulent history of the town was the battle of Beaugency , a series of battles led by Joan of Arc in 1429, in which the region was captured from the English. This was an important victory because at the time, the town controlled the only river crossing in the region. Allied forces blew up both sides of the town’s 13thC medieval bridge (26 stone arches) in WW2, to stop the Nazis crossing over. Originally, the town’s wealth developed around the bridge as the town charged a toll to those who crossed over, overseen by the Caesar Tower.

We arrived at our AirB&B in Cellettes in the early evening (cute cottage in the midst of farming country), having a late dinner and retiring well-tired.

Our first stop out of Paris was to Barbizon, located by the Fontainebleau Forest, an artist’s village. In 1827, Jean-Baptiste Corot found his way here – paving the way for other landscape and animal painters like Theodore Rousseau arriving, wanting to ‘paint from nature’. It’s a picturesque little village with boutique shops, a mosaic-adorned and planter-box streetscape; and a little church with colourful stained glass  of fishes and sheafs of wheat. Delightful wander over a few hours.

Samois-sur-Seine was next – a tiny village by the Seine, where you can sit and sip a glass of your choice by the water, contemplate the barges floating past. In June, the village hosts the Django Reinhardt Jazz Festival bringing together artists of international renown.

Montargis, although quite modern, retains a medieval charm and due to its numerous canals and bridges (131), is described as the “Venice of the Gatinais region”. Pralines, the crunchy confection made from almonds and sugar, were first made here during the reign of Louis X111 and the original shop is still in business on Place Mirabeau. We had a lovely stroll by the canals.

We arrived in Orleans in the evening, just in time for dinner and checked out the many restaurant offerings around Place Martroi. The statue of Jean of Arc in the middle of the square, dominating the vista from every angle. An incredible storm happened as we were supping, with thunder and lightening, increasing the humidity but dropping the temperature. Quite dramatic.

I felt better today, and despite the continuing crazy 34 degree temp, decided to walk around a bit. Discovered I’m really well situated …lots of cafe and supermarket options, and of course, my favourite local restaurant, Georgette!

Walked to Saint Sulpice church, with its fab 15thC baroque architecture. Its revolutionary character was recognised by the architect and teacher, Jacques Blondel, who illustrated the elevation of the façade in his Architecture Françoise of 1752, remarking: “The entire merit of this building lies in the architecture itself… and its greatness of scale, which opens a practically new road for our French architects.” Large arched windows fill the vast interior with natural light. The result is a simple two-storey west front with three tiers of elegant columns. The overall harmony of the building is, some say, only marred by the two mismatched towers”.

Another point of interest dating from the time of the Revolution, when Christianity was suppressed and Saint-Sulpice became a place for worship of the “Supreme Being”, is a printed sign over the centre door of the main entrance. One can still barely make out the printed words “The French people recognize the Supreme Being and the immortality of the soul”).

I need to mention that both the S&M enthusiast Marquis de Sade and poet, Charles Baudelaire were baptised at Saint-Sulpice; and it hosted the wedding of Victor Hugo!

I can’t tell you how many amazing patisserie there are in a square kilometre, but at least 15!!! Constantly salivating, but thank god it’s too hot ….just need water.

I was walking around the Sorbonne Uni precinct when I saw these beauties posing for professional shots and asked if they would pose for me?? Yes, they said!!! OMG, how gorgeous are they??? WOW.

And as a contrast with the new/young…. a lovely old door way at the Sorbonne….