For The Love of Travel

Overnight train from Moscow to Velikiy Novgorod – the birthplace of mother Russia. Prince Rurik, from the Varangian tribe, came here with his troops in the 9th century after being called in by the Slavs to rule. He started the Rurik dynasty that stood at the head of the Russian state for over 700 years and  gave the land a new name of ‘Rus’.

Beginning from the 12th century, Novgorod ‘chose princes of its own free will’, i.e. princes were invited to ‘work as contractors’, with the limit of their responsibilities specified and cost of service negotiated. If a prince did not meet its expectations, he would be shown out.

Over centuries, Veliky Novgorod was a link between medieval Europe and Rus (Old Russia).  Long before Tsar Peter the Great set about ‘opening the window to Europe’,  Veliky Novgorod had became a centre of international integration and trade. Many West European monarchs and nobles wore exquisite fur coats and hats made of Novgorod rare furs like ermine and sable, and strutted around in their leather boots tanned by Novgorod masters of the trade. Russian wax candles flickered on giant altars of major European Gothic cathedrals.   

So I went for a walk around the Kremlin – the compound was originally the site of a pagan burial ground upon which the first bishop of Novgorod, built a Cathedral upon his arrival in the area in 989 or so.

The current fortress was built between 1484 and 1490, and within its red-brick fortress walls is the 5-domed, 11th-century St. Sophia Cathedral.

Nearby, the Millennium of Russia monument erected in 1862 by Alexander 11, to commemorate the 1000th anniversary of Russia. 129 figures representing monarchs, generals and artists during different periods of history. 

 The most important events in Russian history are linked to the ring of Novgorod monasteries and convents surrounding the city, and to famous heroic deeds of their saint founders. Prince Alexander Nevsky prayed on his knees for a victory over the Teutonic knights in St George Cathedral of St George (Yuryev) Monastery. 

The lives of many prominent Russians are closely connected with the lands of Novgorod, for example, Dostoevsky created his prose and Rachmaninoff was musically inspired. 

More than just a means of transportation, the Moscow metro is a masterpiece of art and architecture! All stations have stairs (some escalators), so to visit, its mostly a great work out for a number of muscle groups in the legs. (I have no idea how people with disabilities manage).

Park Kultury – this station leads to Moscow’s main park, Gorky Park, and includes 5 types of marble from veined light grey to black. Marble bas-reliefs depict the labor and leisure activities of the Soviet people.

Ploshad Revolutsii – this station is devoted to the Bolshevik revolution of 1917 and has 76 bronze statues that depict its main participants – peasants, sailors, workers, engineers, students and more. I didn’t forget to rub the dog’s nose for good luck. 

Novokuznetskaya – a station with enormous marble benches with Renaissance style sculpted armrests line the platforms. The ceiling of the hall is decorated with giant brass chandeliers and six mosaics with motifs designed by Alexander Deineka that depict daily life in the USSR.

Kievskaya – built under the personal supervision of Nikita Khrushchev who wanted to pay homage to his Ukrainian homeland. Decorated with marble and granite; bas relief panels telling the story of Ukraine/Russian relations between 1654 and 1917.

Mayakovskaya – an Art Deco masterpiece, it opened in 1938; high slender columns made of aircraft steel give the feeling of a large Hall; mosaics are based on the sketches of Alexander Deineka. Their theme is “24 Hours in the Land of the Soviets”…titles such as 2 airplanes, skiing, grain harvesting,  airship over Spassky tower and more.

A visit at midnight (best black sky in “White Nights” period), to photo the Moscow State Uni building…designed by Lev Rudnev, its the highest of 7 Stalinist skyscrapers in Moscow. Its 240 metres tall.

Today the ‘oh so expensive’, but in my view, ‘oh so worth it’, Grand Kremlin Palace tour…..it was built over a 12 year period, 1837 to 1849. Commissioned by Nicholas 1 and designed by a team of architects under the management of Konstantin Thon, it was intended to empathize the greatness of Russian autocracy. Mr Thon was also the architect for the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour!, and the Armoury, so he was used to visioning ‘grand’. 

The Palace was formerly the Tsar’s Moscow residence. Its 125 metres long, 47 metres high with some 700 rooms and 5 grand reception halls are now used for State receptions and official ceremonies.

The entrance hall has polished granite columns and a grand staircase leads to the first floor. There’s a huge painting on the first floor, “Who Comes to Us With a Sword Shall Perish by the Sword”, painted by Prisekin in 1983. 

The oldest room in the Palace is the Hall of Facets built in 14 87 by Italian architects Marco Ruffo and Antonio Solari. It has unique frescos with iconographic scenes, parquet work rare in its beauty and interiors radiant with gold.

Hall of the Order of St Andrew (The Order of St Andrew is the highest order you can receive in the Russian Federation. It is awarded to prominent statesmen and public figures, and representatives of science, culture, the arts and various industries in promoting the prosperity, greatness and glory of Russia). Needless to say, special ceremonies are held in this Hall.

An early supper before the ballet performance at the Bolshoi restaurant – opulent and grand; stark white and black accented with large colourful modern canvasses, deep purple fabric and brown leather upholstered chairs and a splash of greenery from the beautiful orchids.

The cuisine is French/Russian. And delicious. I tried a tomato and mozzerella salad and beef cheeks with mash…..melt in the mouth!

Onto the Bolshoi theatre…just a few hundred metres down the road. Originally designed by Joseph Bove, holds ballet and opera performances, and sports an incredible Imperial decor resplendent in gold and red. 

The ballet company has more than 200 dancers. Seeing the “Legend of Love” ballet tonight, with Ivan Vasiliev from St Petersburg being a special star in this production. Fabulous choreography, a blend of the traditional style with some modern ballet techniques incorporated, its a visual feast! Ethereal en-pointe females floating across the stage. Especially loving Ivan’s pirouettes, grand jetes and barrel turns – worthy of Nureyev’s and Baryshnikov’s athleticism!

In the interval, I was invited by a staff member to visit the 3rd floor of the theatre to see the historical exhibit of previous stars and performances. Also incredible and delightful!